Teacup Still Life

My cousin-in-law commissioned me to paint a still life for her, of a teacup with steaming tea, a crochet needle, and Walt Whitman’s “Leaves of Grass”. The quality of the result surpassed my expectations, and I think that was mostly due to a process I tried. Good artists use this method or one like it all the time, but I’m sometimes a stubborn and cavalier sort of fellow, so I had always thought I could do without it.

Composition and Lighting (~3h)

I started by arranging the items in every way I could think of, paying attention to leading lines, balance, and negative space. Once I found the composition that suited the objects best, I lit the scene using a lamp and a mirror to create dramatic shadows that drew attention to the focal points. I took a picture of the final arrangement and used that as my reference for the rest of the project so my perspective and lighting would be consistent.

Full.JPG
Reference photograph after composition and lighting arrangement

Line Drawing (~2h)

Using a grid overlaid on the reference photo, I carefully drew in the general outline and some details of the objects onto 140 lb watercolour paper with a 4H pencil.

 

Line Drawing
Line drawing

 

Background Wash and Steam (~1h)

Knowing the background would need to be dark for the steam to be visible against it, I used a mixture of intense blue and burnt umber, applied with much water in circular strokes with a no. 6 filbert brush. For the table, I used the same intense blue and burnt umber, but with more emphasis on the umber. I think I might have tossed in some burnt sienna as well. To keep the object edges sharp without impinging my free brushstrokes, I masked them off with green painter’s tape. If you use this technique, I strongly recommend de-stickifying the tape first by applying it several times to some cloth surface where it can pick up lint. Otherwise, you’ll end up losing a lot of your paper along with your mask.

The steam was going to make or break this picture (and I wasn’t sure I had the chops to do it well), so that’s what I wanted to get out of the way right from the get-go. If it wasn’t going to work out, I wanted to know that before investing a lot of time in the detailed drawings. I used white charcoal, which seemed to work quite nicely. It’s a little tough to see in these photographs (no steam on left, steam on right), but it looks great in the original. The trick to believable steam is subtlety.

Coloured Pencil Drawing (~7h)

Diligence was my watchword while transcribing the reference photo onto the page. I used a combination of coloured pencils, graphite, and charcoal: coloured pencils for colour (of course), graphite for subtle shading and grays, and charcoal for dark shadows and blacks. Every small detail and subtle change in lighting or shadow I mimicked as best I could, patiently working and re-working areas until I was satisfied. The cup alone took about 4 hours to do.

Erin's Teacup

Some lessons learned:

  • As good as you think you are, you can always learn something from the pros.
  • Working from a carefully taken reference photo is the key to consistent and believable lighting and shadows. Having that photo zoomable on a tablet is fantastic for details.
  • Charcoal and graphite don’t adhere well to the waxy surface of several layers of coloured pencil (note the saucer on the right-hand side; I wanted that shadow darker, but it just wouldn’t take). Do shadows first, colours after.
  • Attack the most difficult parts of the picture first before investing your time in other areas. If something goes irrecoverably wrong, you’ll waste less time.
  • Patience, patience, patience.

Custom Harmonica Watch

If you could have a custom-built watch with any gadgets and gizmos built into it that you could want, what would you include?

Harmonica Watch Finished

When I first had the idea to integrate a tiny harmonica into a wristwatch, I started asking myself this very question. My mind ran the gamut of potentially useful items, creating a list of things including a compass, bits of string, LED flashlights… you name it. Being constrained to some degree by the size of my intended watch, I ended up selecting a few components that I thought might be the most useful to me: a chronometer (of course), a USB memory stick, and a harmonica.

The Chronometer

No wristwatch would be properly complete without a means of telling the time, so this was the first consideration. Without having any of the skill, tools, or means of building my own timepiece, I went for the next best thing: I bought and disassembled a cheap watch from Walmart and appropriated the functional components into the body of the watch I designed and built.

The Harmonica

This was the second consideration. As the spark of the idea that created this project in the first place, the harmonica was certain to earn a spot in the final design. It’s a vintage Hohner Little Lady from some unidentified era (presumably from before they started calling them Little Ladies since there is no etching on it anywhere to indicate that name). This is the same tiny harmonica design that earned the honor of being the first musical instrument played in space, in 1965.

The USB Memory Stick

While these memory sticks are growing somewhat out-of-fashion with the ubiquity of cloud-based storage, I still find them personally useful in a number of situations. And that of course, is the beauty of designing and building your own custom tech. You’re not limited by what the vast majority of consumers might find useful, or by what will be easy to sell. You just get exactly what you want. I pulled this little 2 GB memory stick out of a rubber Speedy Gonzales that I believe originally came from Staples.

Design and Build

The watch is designed to be built from four layers of woComplete-Assemblyod, that when glued and screwed together create the cutouts necessary for all the pieces to fit in properly. Both the harmonica and USB stick are held in place using friction fits, which actually turned out remarkably well given my limited experience with woodworking projects. If you’re planning on making your own watch or something similar, I recommend cutting your pieces very slightly larger than required and sanding down, testing the fits as you go until you’re satisfied.

The drawings for all of the wood parts and for the assembly of all the pieces can be found here: Casing Drawings.

It has been quite a fun project, and to be honest I wasn’t sure at any point during the process that I had the skill or ability to be able to pull something like this off. There are a few things that I might change in a re-design if I ever come back to it, and a few things that didn’t turn out quite as I’d hoped (notably two screws in the back shearing off meaning I can no longer change the battery without drilling them out), but overall I’m pleased with the final product. I guess it just goes to show that just because you don’t think you can do something doesn’t mean you can’t try. You may surprise yourself… I did.

Wings

In the process of going through my old artwork to include on this website, I came across a series of three paintings I had done way back in grade 10 or so, that I hadn’t realized at the time went quite well together.

Once I finally saw all three side-by-side I was struck with the idea that together, they could create something more meaningful than the sum of its parts. A little bit of digital photo-editing later, and the three paintings merged to become something of a panoramic storyline, which I like to call “Wings”.

Wings

I remember the first time I came across the word “serendipity” was during one of my art reviews for that class, as my teacher, Ms. Miller, was describing some good artistic choices I hadn’t realized I’d made for some other project. It’s interesting how nine or so years later that same word comes back along with the memory of creating these paintings for the first time.